Tank plants are grown 100% submerged (underwater) to reduce melt and increase adaption. Learn more.
Tank Plants are submerged plants.
Tank Plants die less.
Emersed vs. Submerged Plants
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Emersed Plants
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Grown above water, with roots submerged and leaves exposed to air.
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Common in nurseries and farms because it's easier, cheaper, and faster for growth.
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Submerged Plants
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Grown completely underwater — the way they’ll live in your aquarium.
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Already adapted to underwater conditions (light, CO2, nutrient uptake).
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Submerging an Emersed Plant
When you place an emersed plant into your aquarium:
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It must adapt to underwater life.
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Leaves grown in air can’t function underwater (they may rot).
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The plant often sheds emersed leaves and grows new submerged leaves.
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This process is called "dieback" or "melt".
Why Tank Plants Are Better
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Already adapted to:
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Lower light diffusion in water
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Different leaf shapes and structures
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Nutrient and CO2 uptake underwater
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Less likely to melt or die back
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Faster to start growing in your tank
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Less risk of algae
The Tank Cycle
Critical first steps.
Not cycling a tank before adding fish will likely result in fish death.
Learn why.
Prepare the Tank for Life
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Set Up Your Tank
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Add substrate, decorations, and live plants.
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Fill the tank with dechlorinated water.
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Start your filter.
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Add an Ammonia Source
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Add a small amount of pure ammonia OR
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Drop in a pinch of fish food and let it decompose.
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Seed with Beneficial Bacteria
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Use filter media or gravel from an established tank.
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Add bottled bacteria supplements
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Test the Water Regularly
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Use a liquid test kit to monitor:
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First, ammonia will increase.
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Second, nitrite will appear.
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Finally, nitrate will rise as ammonia and nitrite drop to zero.
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Wait for the Cycle to Complete
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Cycling takes 3–6 weeks.
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A cycled tank will test at:
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Ammonia = 0 ppm
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Nitrite = 0 ppm
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Nitrate is present (e.g., 5–40 ppm)
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Add Fish and Critters Slowly
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Add only a few fish at a time to avoid overloading the bacteria.
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Keep testing water to ensure levels stay safe.
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Substrate, Light, CO2 & Nutrients.
Combine & Succeed
Grow Live Aquarium Plants
1. Lighting – The Energy Source for Plants
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Use a full-spectrum LED light that mimics natural daylight.
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Run lights for about 6–8 hours per day, adjusting to prevent algae growth.
2. Substrate – The Nutrient Foundation
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Choose a nutrient-rich aquarium soil designed to support aquatic plants.
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Substrate provides essential nutrients and anchors plant roots.
3. Fertilizers – Supplying Nutrients
Plants require specific nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, iron and magnesium.
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Liquid fertilizers supply nutrients to plants through their leaves and stems.
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Root tabs or tablets deliver nutrients directly to heavy root feeders.
4. CO2 Injection
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CO2 injection is optional
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CO2 is critical for photosynthesis and vigorous plant development.
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Use a drop checker to monitor CO2 concentration.
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Place the CO2 diffuser opposite the pump output to maximize distribution.
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CO2 injection should start before lights turn on and stop before lights turn off.
Balancing Light, Nutrients, and CO₂
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These three elements must work together:
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Too much light without enough nutrients or CO2 can cause algae.
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Nutrients or CO2 without adequate light won’t support healthy plant growth.
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Balance is key.
Control Algae
Helpful critters
Recommended Critters for Algae Control
Nerite Snails
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Best For: Spot algae, diatoms, film algae on glass and hardscape
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Pros: Can’t reproduce in freshwater, won’t overpopulate
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Note: Leave tiny white eggs that don’t hatch in freshwater
Neocaridina Shrimp (Cherry Shrimp)
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Best For: Biofilm, soft algae on plants and surfaces
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Pros: Hardy, colorful, fun to watch, breed readily
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Note: Need gentle filtration and stable water conditions
Amano Shrimp
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Best For: Hair algae, black beard algae, leftover food
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Pros: Larger and more aggressive algae eaters than neos
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Note: Don’t breed in freshwater; great team players with other species
Ghost Shrimp
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Best For: Soft algae, scavenging
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Pros: Inexpensive, widely available
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Note: Less effective than Amanos; may nip fish fins in some cases
Otocinclus Catfish (Otos)
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Best For: Soft green algae on leaves and glass
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Pros: Peaceful, stay small, great in groups
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Note: Sensitive to poor water quality; only add to mature, well-cycled tanks
CO2 Injection
Accelerated plant growth.
What Is CO₂ Injection?
CO₂ (carbon dioxide) injection supplies plants with a key ingredient for photosynthesis, helping them grow faster, healthier, and more vibrant. It’s especially useful in tanks with medium to high lighting or demanding plant species.
Why Plants Need CO₂
Photosynthesis:
CO₂ + Light + Nutrients → Plant Growth + Oxygen
In most aquariums, natural CO₂ levels are low. Without supplementation, plants may struggle, especially under strong lighting.
Benefits of CO₂ Injection
💨 Faster, Fuller GrowthCO₂ accelerates plant metabolism.
🌱 Healthier PlantsStronger roots, denser foliage.
🧼 Natural Algae SuppressionThriving plants outcompete algae.
🐠 More Oxygen (during the day)Healthier fish and inverts.
🎨 Enhanced ColorationReds pop more under optimal CO₂.
Pro Tips for Effective CO₂ Injection
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Place the Diffuser Opposite the Filter Output
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This ensures CO₂-rich microbubbles are carried throughout the tank by water flow.
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Avoid dead spots where CO₂ may accumulate but not dissolve.
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Aim for the Smallest Bubbles Possible
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Fine mist = more surface area = better absorption.
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Use a quality ceramic diffuser and clean it regularly.
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Use a Drop Checker, Not Just a Bubble Counter
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Bubble counters show CO₂ flow rate, but don’t measure tank levels.
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A drop checker with a pH indicator solution turns green when CO₂ is ~30 ppm (ideal).
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Blue = too little; yellow = too much (can stress fish).
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Glycerol in the Bubble Counter (Optional)
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Glycerol is thicker than water, so bubbles move slower and are easier to count
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It evaporates more slowly too, reducing refills.
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CO₂ Timing Tip
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Use a timer to start CO₂ 1–2 hours before lights come on and stop it 1 hour before lights go off.
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Plants don’t use CO₂ at night, so running it 24/7 wastes gas and can stress fish.